Tasty Brews: 603 Wood Devil double IPA

603 Brewery Wood Devil double IPA from Penuche's. JON BODELL / Insider staff
603 Brewery Wood Devil double IPA from Penuche's. JON BODELL / Insider staff

It had been far too long since our last mission to find a tasty brew in Concord, so for this special pizza edition, we figured it would only be right if we did one now.

We were downtown last week and had the urge to get under ground to escape the freezing rain, and as luck would have it, Penuche’s was open. We went down the stairs and took a gander at the draft selections before choosing something we’d never seen before: 603 Brewery’s Wood Devil double IPA.

If you’ve followed these Tasty Brews installments since the beginning, you’ll know that this particular Insider has never been a big fan of IPAs. But since taking this job, some things have changed for the better.

The Wood Devil is a double IPA, which usually contain about twice as much hops as a traditional IPA, but also more malt and, ultimately, a higher alcohol content. All these things combined means a double IPA will typically be pretty strong in hoppy flavor and aroma.

The Wood Devil, named after a mythical woodland beast of the North Country, according to 603’s website, certainly delivers on all accounts.

At 9.2 percent alcohol by volume, this is among the strongest beers you’re likely to find on tap around Concord. Despite that high content, this is surprisingly easy and enjoyable to drink.

It isn’t harsh and biting like many strong IPAs. Rather, it has inviting citrus and hoppy notes that we imagine would be accessible to a multitude of palates.

The sips linger, but the experience is welcome, as it’s a genuinely flavorful beer. It tastes like beer, but the citric accents and the herby, fresh aroma really make for a more elevated experience than, say, chugging a Keystone out of a can.

While you might not really notice the high alcohol content while you’re sipping, by the time it’s gone, there will be no doubt that you just drank a potent double IPA. Plan accordingly.

This beer is new at Penuche’s, so try it before your friends do!

Author: Jon Bodell

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